Pistonhead Lager from Sweden’s Brutal Brewing seems, superficially, to be ‘well craft’.
It comes in a can.
A tiny, expensive can, bedecked with cartoon skulls, stylish typography and lifestyle rhetoric: “Pistonhead supports live music, Rock n Roll attitudes and good times.”
And yet it tastes… like Carling. That is, fine, but with a nasty edge in the warm dregs.
It’s bland beer targeted at people who don’t want to look like they drink bland beer — some of the BrewDog attitude without the flavour to back it up.
We’re bracing for more of this kind of thing in years to come.