Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

Locals vs. Visitors

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011

On Sunday, we were unlucky enough to see an example of how badly wrong things can go in a pub which, for half the year, is a tourist destination and, for the other half, is a quiet little place in a more-or-less deserted town.

The pub in question is a bit eccentric — not rough, but characterful, and with a bit of history. When we entered, there were a group of regulars, well away after an afternoon’s boozing, sitting on stools around the bar.

Not long after we’d arrived, a German couple came in, lured by the promise of ‘good cooking with local ingredients’ and the promise of sea bass. They were given a cosy candlelit booth in a private corner. The husband (dressed in the customary hunting jacket of a German abroad) asked directly but politely for the music to be turned down a bit. It was loud, and he had been directed to a seat under the speakers. Fair enough. The very professional barmaid/waitress did as he’d asked.

A little later, while the barmaid was in the kitchen, one of the regulars (let’s call him Bob) noticed that the music had been turned down and, swearing, shouted for it to be turned back up. “Is the f**king volume control broken?” It got turned back up.

The barmaid returned and immediately said to the landlady (who was sitting drinking with the regulars) that the people on table 10 had asked for the music to be turned down. It got turned down.

Bob went ballistic. “I drink here every day all year round and I want the music up. I don’t care what table 10 want.” He began to swear at the barmaid who got upset. The landlord and landlady did nothing. The barmaid tried to throw him out, without much success, or any support.

The Germans, thank God, seemed oblivious.

Oblivious, that is, until a drunk Bob came to loom over their table and have a word about their bad manners and how they’d ruined his fun. “If you don’t like it, why d’you come here!?” At this point, the landlady did intervene, guiding him away, and apologising half-heartedly to the tourists. It was embarrassing and awkward for everyone.

Of course, Bob had a point — during the long, cold winter, he and his friends keep the pub afloat. But, by letting him behave like this towards customers and staff, the owners of this pub are risking the loss of a lot more than Bob’s custom. What about the rest of this German tour party? Or anyone who ever asks the coach driver or tour guide for a recommendation of a pub in that particular town? Or asks us?

We certainly won’t be going back.

On the beach

Saturday, April 9th, 2011

View of the beach from the Watering Hole bar.

Why aren’t there more pubs on beaches?

The Watering Hole at Perranporth in Cornwall really is an extremely civilised place.

It has excellent ale (St Austell Proper Job — a change from the ubiquitous Tribute) and decent bar food. It must be one of the only pubs where it’s acceptable to enter with bare feet.

The service is also really friendly, with families, dogs and lone-wandering Londoners all warmly welcomed.

The Leaving of London

Monday, February 21st, 2011

Those happy few who read this blog might have noticed that there’s not been much going on here in the last couple of months. That’s because we’ve had lots going on in our real lives: we’re moving to Cornwall.

This isn’t one of those A House in the Sun-style escapes from the city, just a job opportunity too good to turn down.

Now it’s all agreed and the move is underway, it’s suddenly hit home to us what we’ll be leaving behind. We’ve never claimed London has the best pub scene in Britain (for a city its size, really good pubs are weirdly scarce) but, nonetheless, it’s been getting better and better since we started blogging, and there’s lots we’re going to miss.

In the next few posts, we’re going to record our one-last-time visits to old haunts and try to catalogue our favourite London pubs in some kind of orderly fashion.

Quick review: Traquair House Ale

Tuesday, November 23rd, 2010

This is a beautiful-looking dark brown beer, with an intriguing Christmas-spice, gingerbread aroma. However, for 7.2%, it was really thin — certainly refreshing, but that’s not what we look for in something billed as a big beer.

The Euston Tap: customer service fail

Friday, November 12th, 2010

This new venture from the folks behind the fabulous Sheffield Tap should be our new favourite pub. Unfortunately, we’ve just been treated quite badly by a snooty barmaid.

We’ll stick to Cask.

This is why we stay incognito.

Charity beer tasting event (a rare plug)

Friday, November 5th, 2010

Christine Cryne of CAMRA fame is hosting a beer tasting for children’s charity Brainwave. It’s in London at the end of November. Details below.

The children’s charity, Brainwave, is arranging an exclusive beer tasting at the Farmers’ Club on 30 November, where people can find out a little more about the complex world of beer, where the flavours come from and a bit of the history of beer.  So not only can you come for an entertaining and different evening but help a charity too. The Famers’ Club was founded in 1842 and is a private members’ club not usually open to the public at 3 Whitehall Court, London SW1A 2EL; nearest tube: Embankment.

The tasting is being undertaken by Christine Cryne, who chaired CAMRA’s 2010 Champion of Britain and is a member of the British Guild of Beer Writers.

Tickets are only £28, including a buffet. The doors open from 6pm with an introductory drink with the tasting starting at 6.30pm.

The event is being supported by Greene King and Fuller’s breweries and will feature on of their beers plus others from small craft breweries from around the country.

Tickets are available from Isobel Kerry: isobelkerry@brainwave.org.uk; 07872 548 450 or download an application form from www.brainwave.org.uk


Gunhill

Monday, October 4th, 2010

Adnams Gunhill on cask: dark, bitter, chocolatey… somehow very northern tasting. And very much hitting the spot.

We reach an Impasse

Sunday, September 12th, 2010

We’re on holiday, making our way to Spain via France.

Last night, we spent quite a while hunting a brewpub in Montpellier, only to find that Impasse Perrier is now home to a very non-beery restaurant.

Tired and hungry, we gave up.

Live from Cask

Saturday, August 21st, 2010

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We are in Cask in Pimlico and have obviously had too much to drink — we have just paid 16 quid for a bottle of Goose Island Bourbon County.

Ice cream, coffee, tiramisu… alcohol… It’s wonderful, but is it worth that much?

Maybe, just about.

The Austro-Bavarian Beerlands

Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010

Schaerding is definitely worth a visit. It’s 12 minutes on the train from Passau, or a nice 15km bike ride along the banks of the Inn. It claims to be Austria’s prettiest baroque town. As it’s the only Austrian town we’ve ever been to, we can’t confirm the superlative, but it’s certainly pretty.

There are two breweries in town, handily located opposite each other on the way into town from the station. As in Bamberg, the air was heavy with the smells of brewing: first, malt and then the exact green, tea-like smell you get when you dump hops into the boil. This boded well.

We sampled Baumgartner in the hilariously named Wirtshaus zur Bums’n, apparently a staple of the local Good Beer Guide. We started on the zwickl, which seemed to be the only beer advertised, and it was a stunner — really bitter with a very subtle sourness.  We asked what else they had, and in the babble of Austrian German that followed we discerned “the normal maerzen and dunkles”. Both were extremely good. The maerzen was heady and sweet, and the dark actually tasted dark (as opposed to tasting like the helles with brown food colouring in it, as with so many). It was like treacle, in the best sense.

Then onto Kapsreiter. First up, hearty “landbier” helles and dunkles. The helles was almost chewable — sourdough bread? It would certainly have passed for a pils in much of Germany. The dunkles meanwhile had a lovely deep caramel aroma and an absurdly high, rocky head. Boak thought it lacked a bit in the aftertaste but Bailey thought it was as good as the Baumgartner.

We approached the Bio-bier with caution, having found in the past that organic beers are usually much ado about nothing, but this one was as good if not better than the helles, with a little spicy note at the end (almost a little gingery). Their wheatbeer was also a little spicy, making it more interesting than the others we’d had over the holiday, while ticking all the right banana clove notes as well. Finally their pils (only available in bottles) was more aromatic, paler and sparklier version of the Helles.

Which brewery was better? Hard to say but, on this evidence, we’d say a little local competition is healthy thing.

And so, in conclusion, the best brewery in Passau is actually in Austria…