A German Beer Trail: New York Times

The cathedral in Cologne, home of KoelschThe New York Times trav­el sec­tion has a fan­tas­tic piece on Ger­man beer cul­ture. Ger­man beer is fan­tas­tic – almost invari­ably – but it can be frus­trat­ing to go to cities hun­dreds of miles apart and find that the menus have the same four styles: helles, pils, dunkel and wheat beer. Where have all the local spe­cial­i­ty styles gone, asks Evan Rail?

It hap­pened very quick­ly,” said Ron Pat­tin­son, whose Euro­pean Beer Guide lists many obso­lete and rare Ger­man beers, includ­ing broy­han from Han­nover, mumme from Braun­schweig and keut from Mün­ster. “The old­er styles were over­whelmed, and what we’ve got left are just the odd rem­nants of beers. It’s like a land­scape that has been swamped, and you can just make out the odd tree and hill­top.”

Rail hunts down the rem­nants of local Ger­man beer styles, includ­ing Leipzig’s Gose:

The Gose was amaz­ing, with a mild taste of salt imme­di­ate­ly notice­able in its thick, mousse-like head. Its body was light and slight­ly spicy fol­lowed by a remark­ably bright fin­ish, more crisp than the most crisp ries­ling, sharp­er than the sharpest Chablis, and a bet­ter match for tricky cit­rus and vinai­grette than any wine I’d ever encoun­tered.

Now that’s what I call writ­ing.

A Ger­man Beer Trail: Search­ing for Local Brews – Trav­el – New York Times