It starts as ‘just a marketing term’, probably describing something that has been around for decades.
Supermarket buyers like the ‘marketing term’, so it becomes a ‘category’.
The ‘category’ begets aisles and articles and awards.
Existing businesses develop ‘strategies’ to get a slice of the ‘category’.
New businesses emerge specialising in it.
Eventually, the ‘category’ is worth £X millions per year and employs X thousand people.
Just a marketing term?
(We’ve been writing about the emergence of ‘premium bottled ales’ in the nineteen-nineties, and reflecting on the comments here.)