The Britannia, Brussels, 1958

Though none of them is exactly essential for the scholar of beer and pubs, each has some little nugget or other.
Pubbing, Eating & Sleeping in the South West is a paperback guidebook first published in 1972. Our faded copy (still lurid enough to damage the eyeballs of anyone who might glance at the cover without suitable protection) is the 1974 edition, and cost us 10p less than the original cover price.
It’s not a deep or complex piece of work but does give details of the beer, food and facilities at various pubs in Somerset, Devon and Cornwall. Many listings are accompanied by line drawings like this one of the Ship Inn, Mevagissey:
There are also a couple of nice vintage advertisements (‘Take it Easy! Worthington E’) and the restaurant guide is an added bonus for those with a desire to time travel to the land of prawn cocktails and steakhouses.
We haven’t finished digesting Inn & Around: 250 Whitbread pubs (1974) but have already found lots to enjoy.
It was, we suspect, intended as a ‘stopper’ for the Campaign for Real Ale’s own Good Beer Guide which was first published in paperback in the same year, but it’s hard to imagine anyone being so loyal to one large, rather unpopular brewery that they’d want a guide to only their pubs.
Those who cling to a particular vision of the pub as a Victorian-Edwardian, essentially male space, designed for hard drinking, will find here evidence of where it all ‘went wrong’: “The pub today is a place for family entertainment. And — with the increasing spread of children’s rooms and beer gardens — that means all the family.”
Whitbread’s flagship post-war pubs are given plenty of coverage alongside established classics such as (yet again) the George Inn at Southwark. This one was named after the Daily Express cartoonist:
It doesn’t appear to be there any more. How many of these flat-roofed, wood’n’plastic boxes survived more than twenty years?
As well as illustrations, there are also some splendidly groovy colour photographs.
Finally, there’s the Winter 1977/78 edition of the Countryman magazine, which contains an article by Michael Dineen called ‘Real Ale Returns to the Pubs’, as well as a short spread of photos of Hook Norton brewery by John P. Crook.
There isn’t much new in the tale as told here, but it does give a concise account of the big brewers’ response to CAMRA:
However, one of the acceptable facets of capitalism is that it can turn criticism to its own advantage. Benefit from the strictures…. The result is that many brewers have appropriated CAMRA’s enviable nationwide propaganda, calling their cask-conditioned ales ‘real’ or attempting in other ways to cash in on the publicity by naming so evocatively that drinkers’ memories are stirred again by words like old, tap, genuine, Burton and fine.
The conclusion of the article could be read as a comment on our post from yesterday:
[CAMRA] want quality with tradition… [They] may also be yearning for the glorious uncertainties of, say, La Romaneé Conti, the rarest and finest of Burgundy’s red wines which… stubbornly refuses to be defined scientifically; which may one year be the stuff of dreams and memories and the next, just another wine. [Real ale] has something of that uncertainty.
The image above, taken from the 1978 edition of Whitbread’s official history booklet, Whitbread’s Entire, captures perfectly, we think, the aristocratic manner of the families behind Big Brewing in Britain in the post-war period.
Watneys was also run by members of several wealthy families, and the company was proud of it. Sanders Watney (Winchester, Trinity College Cambridge) founded the British Driving Society in 1957, and Nick Handel, whose father, E.C. ‘Ted’ Handel was Director of Public Affairs at Watneys from the late sixties, told us:
Every year, my father arranged for him to drive the Red Rover stagecoach from London to Southampton, changing horses at all the local pubs with stables. This made great copy for the local press.
These days, it seems, to us, breweries are more likely to play down any sense of inherited wealth in their PR, though photographs of brewery directors in tailored suits, blazers or tweed, looking rather like minor royals, do occasionally crop up in trade publications. They are very rarely astride horses, though.
We’ve been grappling with a problem this weekend: commentary on the British beer industry makes frequent reference to the Big Six, a set of colossal brewing companies emerging from the takeover mania of the nineteen-fifties and sixties. Sometimes, though, it’s the Big Five, the Big Seven, or even the Big Eight; and the companies making up the Big Six in 1960 merge with others, grow and change names, which makes it hard to keep track.
In trying to tell a story, this is a pain.
Should we explain every name change as it happens, possibly confusing the reader and slowing down the narrative? Rely on footnotes? Or, as we’ve seen people do when writing about, say, the Royal Air Force, or Archibald ‘Cary Grant’ Leach, refer to them throughout by one name for the sake of clarity at the expense of accuracy? (With an explanatory note, of course.) We’re inclined towards the latter approach, but still thinking.
Anyway, for your information, in the oh-so-2002 Schott’s Miscellany style, here’s our best attempt to explain the Big Six.
UPDATED: Tandleman highlighted that we’d picked a bad source for our 1960 list, so we’ve found a better one from 1959 and changed the first section below.
UPDATED AGAIN: based on Martyn’s suggestions below. (We’ll also try to identify newspaper sources for each of the mergers/changes.)
The Big Six in 1959# Ind Coope and Taylor Walker, Watney Mann, Courage and Barclay, Bass Ratcliffe Gretton, Whitbread, Scottish Brewers. Brewery mergers/takeovers 1960-67 Courage Barclay + Simonds = Courage Barclay & Simonds (1960) Scottish Brewers + Newcastle Breweries = Scottish and Newcastle (1960) Bass + Mitchells & Butlers = Bass Mitchells & Butlers (1961) Ind Coope/Taylor Walker + Ansells+Tetley Walker = Ind Coope Tetley Ansell (1961) Ind Coope Tetley Ansell = Allied Breweries (1963) Charrington United + Bass Mitchells & Butlers = Bass Charrington (1967) The Big Six in 1967## Bass Charrington, Allied Breweries, Whitbread, Watney Mann, Scottish and Newcastle, Courage Barclay & Simonds. Brewery mergers/takeovers/name changes after 1967We wholeheartedly agree with Melissa Cole’s call for an end to sexist imagery in beer branding, but nonetheless take heart from how far we’ve come in the last forty years. Consider this, for example, from a full-page ad from Whitbread in the Daily Express in 1968.
We realise we’re addressing a limited audience.
Only the young, the the abstemious and the foreign tourist, at a guess.
For certainly our regulars need no help in getting familiar with our beers. Or our barmaids.
Though, on the face of it, the choice is just a little bewildering. On average, where you see the Whitbread sign, you can choose from twenty different beers.
Served by Britain’s most gorgeous barmaids. (We have annual beauty contests to keep the standard up.)
So now, with our little bit of chat about our beers, we’re also giving a few tips on how to chat-up our birds.
We’d hate to think some tourists come all the way to Britain and miss the most attractive scenery.